Tuesday 15 April 2008

Glebe Point Diner

An instant classic. A throwback to the good old days. Chubby Checker’s “The Twist”. Street’s Golden Gaytimes. Get Smart. Disney’s “Mary Poppins”.

The twist in this episode, the almost charming, lackadaisical, casual feel to this place, daring to deviate from the norm. Windows as tall as Wilt the Stilts Chamberlain and some open up the diner to the quiet part of Glebe Point Road. Smart white wicker chairs for the alfresco compliments the liquorice black and pearly white candy stripes inside. Makes you feel like lickin the walls.

Golden times indeed, certain to make people happy, deep fried zucchini flowers are delicately battered, lightly seasoned, stuffed with creamy, ricotta, oozy filling, absent of excess oil. Even better, slices of medium rare duck from NSW in a salad of watercress, sherry vinaigrette, matched with just ripe black figs. Imagine the textures of tender meat with the sweet flesh of fruit, a gaytime (not in the woman woman man man way) indeed.

Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious Ms Poppins, beauty in the Coorong beef flank, cooked to medium rare, roasted tenderly with snake beans and caramelised eschalot, arrive with homemade, hand cut French fries. Chim Chim Cher-ee good comes in the form of Bermagui Moon Fish boneless fillet, pan fried to a slight golden brown with sauteed spinach, roasted potato sauced with a refreshingly biting lemon preserve.

However, missed by that much, the desserts didn’t match the CONTROL of the previous courses. Plum tart was exactly that, a little too tart, the vanilla crème patissiere not enough to balance whilst the base a bit biscuity hard and crumbly. 99 in appearance, but 86 bungled, the rosemary and honey pannacotta with apricot jam looked a treat, though, was more liquid than Don Adams’ solid portrayal. Chief would be frustrated.

Despite this anomaly, it’s hard not to love the place. With an extensive wine list, a Larrabee knowledgeable wait team and prices that will have you return for multiple re-runs, better book yourself a seat for the whole of Sydney wants to eat here. Okay okay… would you believe that there’s a pretty long waiting list for the Diner on Glebe Point Road?

4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 407 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe, NSW
What? Entrees $15, Mains $25, Desserts $14







Left to Right : Zucchini Flowers, Duck Salad, Beef Flank, Moon Fish, Plum Tart, Pannacotta

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